New from Spain
ABEL MENDOZA
Abel Mendoza Monge is a viticulturist and winemaker based in San Vicente de la Sonsierra, one of the most noble municipalities under DOC Rioja; noble too is his attitude and philosophy towards the vineyard. “I cultivate vines following my own rules, which has nothing to do with current trends; rhythms are marked by the variables one observes in the vine, where a correct intervention at the right time on the land or on the vine, determines the quality of the wine”, he stated.
This professional was born 48 years ago in San Vicente de la Sonsierra, when the area was still not the sea of vines it is today and when subsistence agriculture still took precedence: “grow a little of everything and sell a bit of it all. Except with wine, which has always been the main pivot in the backbone of the town’s economy, one of the greatest regions for vine cultivation”, Mendoza categorically recalled.
Because of his own personal history, he also recalls the beginning of the 1960s, when rural exodus to industrial cities was the most sensible way out, “whole families emigrated, by their hundreds, in search of a better and more financially comfortable life. However, mine decided to stay in the village and that sealed my destiny: coexistence with the countryside, with its huge deficiencies and challenges, with its atavistic and backward characteristics, but with an enormous wealth of knowledge accumulated over many years relating to vine cultivation and the transformation of grapes into wine”.
However, the greatest commitment undertaken by this man, who still believes that a man’s word is his bond, took place at the beginning of the ‘80s, when he took charge of the family’s Tempranillo vineyards and the idea about what he wanted for his most immediate future started to take shape: to sell the wines he made under his own brand name. “It was a huge step to take, because I knew how to cultivate vines and make wine, but I had no idea about the market and its norms, although I was motivated by the powerful and deceptive conviction which inspires ‘destripaterrones’ [farm labourers]: work and more work”, he commented. He finished his reflection by stating that it was “a road with no return, which I started in 1986 and which has had a slow trajectory, first with intuition as a guide, and then through acquired knowledge; as well as suggestions from my customers, many of whom are friends who have encouraged me to make increasingly sophisticated, limited, first-rate wines. Some, undoubtedly, unique”.
As a result, in 1988, after building a bodega to substitute the old one which belonged to his parents, he released the bodega’s first label on the market: ‘Jarrarte’, “it’s a young wine subject to carbonic maceration with which I made my debut in society. It was hard to sell then and now, because young wines are the great unknown in La Rioja, except in neighbouring territories, where they are very much appreciated”, Mendoza explained.
The turnaround occurred with the Abel Mendoza Selección Personal 1998, raised in oak barrels for eleven months. Its production was only 4,500 bottles. Its vineyards, 16 hectares, are located on the banks of the Ebro, in varied terrain and soils that combine clay, marls and fine sandstones. They are 30 year old vines of Tempranillo and Malvasia varieties.
Although its beginning was dedicated to the production of young red wines, by far and away some of the most exciting wines being made by Abel Mendoza are his range of white Rioja’s. All single varietal and all aged in carefully selected French oak (Nevers and Allier) barrels. All the wines are low production and high quality, and all are made following organic farming methods. There are four varietals in this range. An expressive and aromatic Viura which shows a touch more freshness than the floral Malvasia, and two surprises to most, a rich Garnacha Blanca and a Torrontes brimming with spice and intrigue.
We are very lucky to have a selection of these amazing wines and have a very limited supply. the wines will be sold on a first come first served basis, so if you would like to reserve a few bottles get in touch with us as soon as possible. They will not be around for long!!
JARRARTE, JOVEN, MACERACION CARBONICA, TINTO, 2009. £8.99 SOLD OUT
JARRARTE, CRIANZA, TINTO, 2006. £16.99
ABEL MENDOZA, SELECTION PERSONAL, TINTO, 2007. £32.99 VERY LIMITED
ABEL MENDOZA, VIURA, 2009. £19.99
ABEL MENDOZA, MALVASIA, 2009. £19.99
ABEL MENDOZA, GARNACHA BLANCA, 2009. £19.99
ABEL MENDOZA, TORRONTES, £19.99
Abel Mendoza showing meticulous care whilst tending to his vines in La Rioja Alta.